Giacomo Conterno: Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2019

Giacomo Conterno: Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2019

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Begrænset

Trækasse

Til vinbonden

Nebbiolo 100%
rød, tør
14,5% Vol.
Modenhed til at drikke: 2027–2055
Pakket ind i: 3-delt OHK
rig på tanniner
struktureret
velsmagende & krydret
Lobenberg: 100/100
Suckling: 99–100/100
Decanter: 100/100
Jeb Dunnuck: 100/100
Parker: 100/100
Galloni: 99/100
Italien, Piedmont
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2019

100
/100

I 2019-årgangen er Monfortino en blanding af de bedste druer fra Arione- og Francia-vinmarkerne, som derfor ikke aftappes hver for sig. Kvaliteten af druerne var så fremragende, at Roberto besluttede ikke at lave en Barolo Arione eller en Barolo Francia i år! Denne beslutning blev sidst truffet i 2013- og 2014-årgangene. Det betyder, at der heldigvis er endnu lidt mere Monfortino fra denne fænomenalt gode årgang. 2019 blev lagret i næsten fem år på store træfade, den blev tappet på flaske i maj 2024 og vil blive frigivet i 2025 med næsten et års flaskelagring. Delikat, lys rubinrød med orange. Vinens næse er vidunderligt kompleks og fuld af finesse, fint svævende og samtidig utrolig dyb. Den lange lagring på træ har frembragt krydrede aromaer af blod, hængt kød, dybt summende æteriske urtekrydderier, blodappelsinskal og en snert af lakrids. Frugten er perfekt afbalanceret, mørk og uophørligt slagkraftig. Sprøde, friske slåen, sorte kirsebær, koncentrerede boysenbær og et strejf af røde og solbær. Vinens dybe jordbundethed kommer fra noter af brændt ler, brunt krydderi, cubansk tobak, lakrids, skovbund, mørkt stenmel med et strejf af mælkechokolade og krydret røget kød. Mineraliteten er både monumental og delikat i næsen. Den veksler med svævende jordbær og blomster samt lidt friskristet hasselnød. I munden er denne vin som en dyb provokation for sanserne, kildet frem af en fjerhånd! Det var dog utroligt! Nådesløs perfektion! Denne koncentrerede, æteriske dybde rammer tungen, næsten som om den svæver, men dvæler der i umådelig lang og intens tid - brombær og mørke blommer med rustent jern. De mange fløjlsbløde, polerede tanniner er næsten sarte på trods af den store årgang og bygger sig mere og mere op på tungen. Den friske, salte syre glider langsomt hen over tungen hånd i hånd med strukturen. Denne vin har en næsten uendelig mængde smagsnuancer, som altid forbliver delikate og går i dybden - jeg smager vinen på vingården i over ti minutter. Det er umuligt at yde en så overdimensioneret vin retfærdighed på så kort tid. Ellers er det kun Luca Roagnas Crichet Paje, der kommer tæt på denne form for umådelig finesse i kombination med nådesløs koncentration, selv om den tenderer mere og mere i retning af lys, rød frugt. Denne Monfortino er en essens af delikat røget mineralitet og svævende mørk frugt - et monument for evigheden af enestående finesse og delikatesse og samtidig en så rørende dybde! Perfekt harmoni i kraftfuld delikatesse - en vin-oxymoron! Grandios, en vin med absolut enestående harmoni. Så lang, så intens og samtidig så utrolig fin.

99–100
/100

Suckling om: Barolo Riserva Monfortino

The quality of the tannins is so impressive in this wine, even though it’s a tannic year. Medium to full body. Lovely complexity and length. Barrel sample. Bottled next year and released in 2025. 99-100/100

100
/100

Decanter om: Barolo Riserva Monfortino

Demonstrating the meticulous precision for which the estate is known, the 2019 Monfortino is a thoroughbred. I was able to taste it on a couple of occasions during its maturation, after the blend of Francia and Arione was made. Since bottling last spring, it has retreated into itself and now just hints at black tea, truffle and dark wet earth. The tannins are still rigid and stubborn, though very sophisticated and inextricable from the fruit, while the acidity is simply salivating. Glimpses of baked earth, granite and graphite appear, but truly, this will take years to unfold. For now, it’s all iron fist. The yet-to-be-bottled 2020 which I tasted alongside will likely be approachable long before this.

100
/100

Jeb Dunnuck om: Barolo Riserva Monfortino

I’ve tasted the 2019 Barolo Monfortino three times before bottling at the estate, and it’s one of those vintages where no Francia was made, so all the fruit went into the Monfortino. This is a highly structured expression of the cuvée, yet it shows remarkable finesse and nimbleness in the glass. Aromas of leather, smoky earth, cherries, and floral cologne emerge with clarity and depth. The palate is tightly woven and precise, with firm yet balanced tannins, vibrant acidity, and a long, resonant finish. It’s already showing beautifully, and this is truly as good as it gets. The nobility of its structure is profound and promises decades of evolution. Speaking with Roberto Conterno during this tasting, he likened the wine to the 2013, but noted that it carries more elegance even now, something he attributes to the inclusion of Arrione in the final blend.

100
/100

Parker om: Barolo Riserva Monfortino

It's been a while, alas. The last vintage of this legendary wine was 2015. Skipping forward to a year of natural richness and concentration, the Giacomo Conterno 2019 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a magnificently executed wine. It carefully reins in the soaring power of Nebbiolo and whittles it down to extreme finesse and precision. This is the essence of the grape with no extra bells or whistles. Roberto Conterno tells me he chose not to make Monfortino in 2016 because he considered 2015 to be a superior vintage. (There is an image problem with 2015, he concedes, because 2016 was more consistent overall than 2015; however, his experience with 2015 is better.) The 2017 vintage was a contender for Monfortino, but the wine was not made. The 2018 vintage also came close to production, but a lack of diurnal temperature shifts at the end of the growing season disqualified it, Roberto Conterno explains. His heart settled on 2019, a vintage that reminds him of the tension and energy found in 2013. However, the DNA of the 2019 vintage is slightly different because this edition sees 27% fruit blended from Arione. This site adds finesse and elegance. The rest of the blend represents a special selection from Francia, and that is where this wine gets its power and age-worthy tannins. The 2019 will be released in October 2025.

99
/100

Galloni om: Barolo Riserva Monfortino

The 2019 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a modern-day classic. Powerful and virile, the 1999 takes its place in the line of great, classically built Monfortinos, a lineage that includes vintages such as 1978, 1996, 1999 and 2013. Dark, balsamic-infused spice and mentholated notes meld into a core of dark-fleshed Nebbiolo fruit. Huge swaths of tannin wrap it all together in grand style. Unforgettable.

Min vinmager

Giacomo Conterno

Roberto Conterno er traditionalist: 35 dages mæskefermentering! Ingen barriques, selvfølgelig, men traditionelle fade, ingen klaring, ingen filtrering.

Barolo Riserva Monfortino 2019