Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken: Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese 2009

Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken: Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese 2009

VDP

Til vinbonden

96
100
2
Riesling 100%
5
hvid, sød
Modnet
7,5% Vol.
Modenhed til at drikke: 2014–2049
Pakket ind i: 6s
9
meget sød
eksotisk & aromatisk
3
Lobenberg: 96/100
Parker: 93/100
Galloni: 93/100
6
Tyskland, Mosel Saar Ruwer
7
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese 2009

96
/100

Auslese fra 2009 kom fra vingårdens skatkammer som en sen frigivelse i 2025. Saarburger Rausch er en spektakulær stejl skråning, der ligger direkte i byen Saarburg, og jordbunden er grå skifer med diabas, en basaltflint, der giver en helt særlig mineralitet. Zillikens' parceller er beplantet med gamle vinstokke, hvoraf de fleste er upodede. Auslese er utrolig overdådig fra dette år, lækker kraftfuld, grøn mandarin, pink grapefrugt. Men i munden kommer den store overraskelse, fordi den slutter så fint og levende, fordi den viser så meget animation og leg. Jeg havde forventet en meget kraftigere vin, men der er ingen tyngde her, intet opulent. Auslese fra 2009 var AP nr. 5 i den interne klassifikation, som angiver koncentrationen, jo dybere jo mere. Så der var fire endnu højere prædikater.

93
/100

Parker om: Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese

Picked largely near the beginning of the harvest – at the same time when botrytis berries were being selected for this year's T.B.A. – Zilliken's 2009 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese features grilled pineapple, fresh lemon, and candied grapefruit rind, its bittersweet personality already anticipated by zesty, smoky aromatic pungency. Honey along with hints of caramel, butterscotch, and white raisin mingle with prickly pineapple and subtly biting citrus rind, and this is as creamy as it is blade-like in acid cut, yet somehow the effect is invigorating and dazzling, not inharmonious. You don't even think about the sweetness from this wine's 120 grams residual sugar when it's in your mouth. Its sense of sheer density and penetrating sharpness of acid dominates in the finish, and I would give this a decade to ripen before broaching the first cork. There is 30-40 year potential here, I suspect. 93/100

93
/100

Galloni om: Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese

Pale golden yellow. Subtle aromas of baked apple, cinnamon and vanilla. The creamy, rich papaya fruit is still covered in baby fat so that the underlying acidity is almost completely masked today. In spite of the wine's weight, a spicy elegance dominates the finish. 93/100

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Weingut Zilliken

Sammen med Egon Müller står vingården Geltz Zilliken i spidsen for de ædle søde Rieslinge fra Saar. I nogle år har Hans Joachim Zilliken og hans datter Dorothee Zilliken også skabt sig et navn som producenter af fremragende tørre vine, som nu er blandt crème de la crème i Tyskland.