Duclot Sammlerbox Duclot Bordeaux-Kollektion 2015
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- Forskellige
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- , tør
- Modnet
- 14,5% Vol.
- Modenhed til at drikke: 2030–2060
- Pakket ind i: 1 OHK
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- Lobenberg: 100/100
- Parker: 100/100
- Suckling: 100/100
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- Frankrig, Bordeaux, Bordeaux-kollektionen
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- Allergener: Sulfitter
Heiner Lobenberg om:
Sammlerbox Duclot Bordeaux-Kollektion 2015
/100
Petrus: Hvad kan man sige, en levende legende. Dybest set en af de største vine i verden. Sammen med Le Pin er Petrus superstjernen i 2015-årgangen. Begge 100 point. Hvis Le Pin er den finere vin, har Petrus en mere kompleks, rigere dybde. Meget rødkindet og udstyret med en fantastisk mundfølelse. Dyb, mørk frugt plus tobak, kaffe og trøfler. Alligevel mister den ikke sin friskhed. Et atletisk kraftcenter i århundredets årgang... 100/100 *** Lafite: 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot. Høst fra 17. til 23. september Cabernet, Merlot indtil 6. oktober. Næsen, puristisk ren Cabernet og alligevel kirsebær fra Merlot, meget fin, røde kirsebær, lidt slåen, moreller, så også sorte kirsebær, sødmefuld, harmonisk, udstråler en utrolig balance og finesse. Munden er fuld af finesse og delikatesse, godt vævet og svævende. Midten er dog lidt for tynd og eftersmagen lidt kort. Dette er bestemt en Lafite, som altid er fremragende at drikke, men også her er der et problem med forholdet mellem pris og ydelse. Hvis man ved, hvad en Premier Cru som denne koster, bør man ikke købe den i 2015, medmindre penge ikke er noget problem, for det er bestemt en stor, fin oplevelse. En vin til fornøjelse, men uden en enorm tanninmasse og uden total imponerendehed, det er den simpelthen for slank til. Ikke desto mindre er den ekstremt elegant. 97-99/100 *** Ausone: En 7 hektar stor vinmark på ren kalksten i udkanten af St. Det bedste terroir og ofte benchmark for St. Emilion. Op til 12.500 vinstokke tæt plantet pr. hektar, 30 hl/ha udbytte, 85 % lagret i nyt træ, 50 % Cabernet Franc og 50 % Merlot. I modsætning til Cheval Blanc er næsen ikke kun præget af Cabernet Franc, Merlot spiller også en klar rolle. En masse søde sorte kirsebær, efterfulgt af sure kirsebær, endda lidt solbær, fint, meget sammenvævet, utroligt harmonisk, meget elegant, tilgængelig, næsen er en fornøjelse. En vidunderlig, stor, harmonisk Ausone. Alt passer i munden, sammensætningen, harmonien, alt er fint, giver glæde, og alligevel er der uforklarligt et hul til de virkelig store vine i denne årgang. Denne Ausone er ekstremt harmonisk, men for mig ikke så stor som Cheval og Angelus. 100/100 *** Margaux: 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. Berusende tæt og voluminøs næse med utrolig meget charme. Vi måtte helt ombestemme os på denne tur. Estephe, så en superfin Pauillac, så enormt præcise Cabernets med krydderi i St Julien, og nu får vi Margaux-appellationens overdådighed med denne enorme frugtighed og denne bløde duft, men med noget mindre klar definition. Vi har rød og sort frugt her, meget charmerende omsluttende. Smagen har det hele og er alligevel ikke så klar. Rød og sort frugt, masser af frugt, masser af kraft, masser af styrke, men jeg savner definitionen, det hele er enormt komplekst, næsten for meget af det hele. Det hele er der, utrolige smagsnuancer, fantastisk finesse og alligevel, som med Pavillon Rouge, mangler den entydighed og klar retning. Det er en megakompleks vin, og måske er det den første appellation efter disse appellationer i nord, hvor denne store rigdom, denne kompleksitet og dette all-in hersker. Jeg kan bevidne en enorm smagsrigdom og storslået kompleksitet. Jeg kunne nævne ti sorte og røde frugter, alt er der, alt danser. Det er stor klasse, og alligevel er der ikke noget unikt. Kun den fremragende kvalitet er der ingen tvivl om. Store ting, uden at kunne specificere det mere præcist. Det, der under alle omstændigheder også kendetegner den, er en enorm tanninstruktur. Vinen har et utroligt lagringspotentiale og vil måske være en af de store vine i ejendommens historie om 10, 15 eller 20 år. Det skal i hvert fald certificeres med mine restriktive ord. Jeg tror, den har en utrolig fremtid. 100/100 *** Mouton: 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Tæt næse af sorte kirsebær, lidt cassis og morbær nedenunder. Meget fin for Mouton, viser god volumen, også god kraft og alligevel et tæppe af fint poleret frugt. Smagen er mere lækker end delikat, smukt poleret, tanninerne er runde, men vinen viser stadig greb. Den viser altid det vidunderlige kirsebærcenter. Jeg har sjældent smagt Mouton så lækker, i år er den mere en finere udgave af d'Armailhac end Clerc Milon Rothschild og en stor delikatesse. Men det er ikke en stor vin. Den har mindre chance mod sine naboer Pontet Canet, Pichon Lalande eller Latour. Ikke desto mindre er den en sand fornøjelse at drikke. Den tyske kunstner Gerhard Richter har malet etiketten til denne årgang. Måske den billigste måde at få en ægte Richter hjem på? 99/100 *** Haut Brion: Denne Premier Cru består af 50 % Merlot, 8 % Cabernet Franc og 42 % Cabernet Sauvignon. Jeg ved ikke, om jeg i de foregående år har lagt mærke til, hvor tæt karakteren af den anden vin Clarence er på den første vin. Vi har virkelig den sublime fortsættelse af andenvinen her. Det hele svæver bare et niveau højere. En tæt, blød sky af overvejende sorte kirsebær og sød cassis. Næsten ingen blåbær, men i stedet meget moden blomme og sveske. Det hele understøttes af mørk jord, enebær og lidt laurbær. I modsætning til La Mission er Haut-Brion 2015 ikke så kraftig som 2005, den er blødere, endda blødere end 2010. Den er heller ikke helt så bred som 2009, men ligger stilistisk et sted midt imellem. Og vinen er superfin! Minder om 2008 med en anelse mere finesse. Men det hele er et niveau højere med stor harmoni og længde. En fin, stor vin, men i lyset af de forventede priser på Premier Crus er 2015 bestemt ikke en absolut købsanbefaling. Andet lag omkring Haut-Bailly, Smith og Château Pape-Clément er for gode i 2015. Ikke desto mindre er storheden utvivlsomt til stede. 100/100 *** La Mission Haut Brion: 58% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. Kvaliteten kommer virkelig til sin ret her. Der kommer masser af kraft ud af glasset, og mindet om 2005 er absolut til stede. Denne vin viser et enormt greb og fasthed. Det hele svæver i en ekstremt luftig og fyldig næse af mælkechokolade, kirsebær, cassis og solbær. Der er også slåen, fine krydderier, let jord og dominikansk tobak. Munden minder også straks om 2005 med dette fabelagtige greb og bid. Det er en virkelig sprød vin, som alligevel besidder uendelig finesse. Jeg havde forventet lidt mere storhed og balance i 2015, men den anden vin, La Chapelle, viser, at La Mission bestemt er det lidt grovere og hårdere, men mere karakterfulde medlem af Haut Brion-familien. Den har stor længde og slutter først efter et par minutter med et vanvittigt mineralsk syrespark. 97-100/100 *** Yquem: Så utrolig puristisk frugt med en enorm spændingsbue og forbløffende friskhed. En strålende Yquem til evig tid. 100/100 *** Cheval Blanc: 55% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Franc. Høsten fandt sted for 5 uger siden i mange små parceller, som kunne høstes igen og igen. Næsen er ultradelikat og fin, totalt domineret af Cabernet Franc. Surkirsebær, fine solbær, meget delikat. Den røde frugt og den store friskhed stråler allerede fra næsen. Smagen er også ultradelikat, fin og også her kun rød frugt meget fint understøttet af søde røde kirsebær. En dansende eliksir, men ultradelikat i alt. Lang, poleret, poleret, udstråler smuk varme, stor friskhed, men når jeg sammenligner den med Jean Faure, dens direkte nabo, som jeg smagte kort forinden, kunne jeg endnu bedre lide dens noget mere ekspressive volumen, selv om Cheval uden tvivl er den større vin. Cheval er bestemt en af årgangens mest delikate fristelser. Den er bare ikke en damphammer og slet ikke et kraftværk. Man skal helt sikkert vente ti år på, at cabernet franc'en opbygger sin kraft. Det vil altid være en ultradelikat vin, så jeg er lidt usikker på, hvordan jeg skal bedømme den i starten, men efter 20 minutter bliver den klarere og klarere. Hvis du vil have denne ekstreme delikatesse, er det helt sikkert årgangens mest delikate og mest spændende vin. Den uendelige kraft er helt skjult bag en silkeblød finesse, som man ikke troede var mulig. 100/100
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Parker om: Sammlerbox Duclot Bordeaux-Kollektion
Petrus: When I asked winemaker Olivier Berrouet about his greatest challenges in 2015, he replied, “Our biggest challenge is to avoid all the temptations you can have in the vineyard and in the cellar. You can go too far. With our job, if you go too far, you can’t go back. Little steps are best.” His comments eloquently explain the immense pressure of handling a seemingly pressure-less vintage like 2015 in Pomerol. But, with the devil in all the many details that are involved in the pursuit of wine perfection, if anyone has that devil by the horns, it is this incredibly talented young winemaker. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2015 Petrus (bottled in mid-July 2017) opens in its own time to reveal crushed black cherries, warm plums, mulberries and cedar chest suggestions with touches of anise, lavender, beef drippings and wild thyme plus a waft of crushed rocks. Medium to full-bodied, it fills the palate with generous, exuberant, wonderfully layered red, black and perfumed blue fruits contrasted beautifully by very ripe, very fine-grained and very firm tannins plus an ethereal line of seamless acid, finishing long and minerally. Olivier Berrouet and his team have knocked it out of the park in 2015. Look for this Pétrus to build and unfold over the next 20 years and confidently cellar this legend for 40+ years. 100/100 *** Ausone: Composed of 50% Cabernet Franc and 50% Merlot aged in French oak barrels, 85% new, for 20 months, the 2015 Ausone features a deep garnet-purple color and comes bounding out of the glass with expressive plum preserves, wild blueberries and cherry pie aromas plus fragrant nuances of roses, licorice, Indian spices, baker’s chocolate, new leather and cedar chest plus a touch of underbrush. Big, rich, opulent and full-bodied in the mouth, it is laden with bold blue and black fruits, superbly supported by very firm, very finely grained tannins and wonderfully seamless freshness, finishing with long-lingering exotic spice hints. 99/100 *** Margaux: The 2015 Chateau Margaux is a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Medium garnet-purple colored, the nose features oh-so-seductive notes of warm blackberries, cassis and black forest cake with touches of forest floor, sandalwood, anise and cigar boxes plus a waft of lavender. Medium to full-bodied, it delivers taut, muscular, densely packed black fruits and exotic spice flavor layers supported by a very firm backbone of grainy tannins with oodles of freshness and a long, savory finish. It is tightly knit and a little reticent at this very youthful stage; afford it at least 15 years in the cellar, and it will open out into a classic Chateau Margaux of incredible proportions. Readers may be interested to know that this wine is beautifully packaged in a special commemorative bottle honoring winemaker Paul Pontellier, who passed away in 2016. The gold-etched black bottle bears the message, “Hommage à Paul Pontellier” at the bottom. This 2015 is an achingly beautiful swan song from an incredibly gifted winemaker, taken from us too soon. In my view, this alone makes this vintage more than worth the investment for the many lovers of history in a bottle. 99/100 *** Mouton: The 2015 Mouton Rothschild is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc aged in 100% new oak with a mid-July 2017 bottling. Deep garnet-purple colored, this Mouton pulls off an incredibly impactful entrance, emerging from the glass with profound notes of blackberry preserves, plum pudding, crème de cassis and grilled meats, featuring perfectly accessorized accents of sandalwood, cinnamon stick and fenugreek with wafts of dried roses, unsmoked cigars and tilled soil. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is completely packed with rich, ripe black fruits sparked with blue and red fruit undertones and an incredible structure of very firm, very ripe tannins, with seamless freshness and an epically long, earth-laced finish. Possessing striking natural beauty framed by impeccable crafting, this 2015 is a total diva and well worth attention. Give it a good 7-8 years in bottle, at least, and drink it over the next 30+ years. 98/100 *** Haut Brion: A blend of 50% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, the medium to deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Haut-Brion is reticent to begin, languidly revealing crushed black cherries, ripe black plums and wild blueberries with sparks of cinnamon stick, cloves, nutmeg, espresso, unsmoked cigars, tapenade, crushed rocks and lavender. The full-bodied palate possesses wonderfully complementary contrasts of bold black and blue fruit richness and delicately nuanced cherry fruit, baking spices and floral accents, strutting ripe, finely pixelated tannins and seamless acidity that is placed firmly in the background, finishing very long and with plenty of attitude. This impeccably poised, exquisitely perfumed 2015 Haut-Brion possesses the most alluring yet seemingly effortless beauty. While it bears only a passing resemblance in its opulent personality to the now legendary 1989, like that vintage the 2015 cannot fail to hedonically satiate and intellectually edify all lovers of great Bordeaux who drink it. What’s more, it also has the blue-blooded tenaciousness to remain this jaw-droppingly impressive, throughout its many guises over time, and for a very, very long time. 100/100 *** La Mission Haut Brion: The deep garnet-purple colored 2015 La Mission Haut-Brion is a blend of 58% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon. Youthfully mute with bright, youthful red currants, black raspberries, cassis and freshly crushed blackberries notions, it slowly unfurls to reveal an earthy/minerally undercurrent of damp soil, charcoal, iron ore and truffles plus a waft of violets. Medium to full-bodied, decadently fruited and yet wonderfully elegant with very ripe, very silky tannins, freshness that sits well in the background and an almost electric intensity of vibrant red and black fruit flavors, it finishes long and minerally. Just. Beautiful. Consider giving it 6-7 years in bottle before broaching and drink it over the next 30+. 98/100 *** Yquem: Following a very long harvest stretching nearly two months, the 2015 Château d'Yquem came in at 13.9% alcohol and 144 grams per liter of residual sugar, sporting a pH of 3.65 and six grams per liter of tartaric acid. None of these numbers, however, even remotely begin to tell you how profound this wine is. The nose opens with electric notes of ripe pineapples, green mango, orange blossoms and lemon tart with hints of fungi, lime zest, crushed rocks and jasmine. The freshness on the palate is just astonishing, permeating and lifting layer upon layer of tropical fruits and earthy notions, all encased in a sumptuous texture and culminating in a very, very long, mineral-tinged finish. Truly, this is a legendary vintage for d'Yquem. I've been conservative with my drinking window here, and I would not be at all surprised if our descendants are drinking this vintage well into the next century. 100/100 *** Cheval Blanc: As many readers may know, 2015 was the first year since 1988 that Cheval Blanc did not produce its second wine, Petit Cheval. This said, parts of two of the Cheval Blanc blocks were not used at all—Plot 17A and the north part of Plot 10—which had problems with water availability during the dry spell, and the fruit was sold for bulk. Therefore, this vintage of the Grand Vin equates to roughly 90% of the total production, making it one of the most complete expressions of Cheval Blanc ever produced. Composed of 53% Merlot and 47% Cabernet Franc, the deep garnet-purple colored 2015 Cheval Blanc slowly opens up to reveal plum preserves, black forest cake, blackberry pie and pronounced licorice notes with suggestions of cloves, cinnamon stick, star anise, dried Provence herbs and lavender plus wafts of iron ore and dusty soil. Medium to full-bodied, rich and densely packed with incredible layers of black, red and blue fruits, it completely fills the palate with energy and expression, framed by very ripe, wonderfully velvety tannins and a racy line of acid, finishing with incredible length and poise. At once achingly graceful and captivatingly cerebral, this is a legendary vintage for this great estate. 100/100
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Suckling om: Sammlerbox Duclot Bordeaux-Kollektion
Petrus: A wine that makes me dream and touches my soul. Such amazing purity and density yet the tannins and acidity are in perfect balance. The freshness and quality tannins is second to none. It’s a redefinition of some of the great Petrus such as 1971 and 1961 that didn’t have the precision or clarity of today. 100/100. Lafite: Lead and graphite are complimented by notes of blueberries and blackberries. Blackcurrants, too. Full-bodied and focused with very round and polished tannins. Elegance with power. Very classic nature for Lafite. Try in 2022. 99/100 *** Ausone: A mindbinder of a wine with pure fruit and so much fine tannins and mineral character. It’s hyper tight and super polished. The palate starts off slowly and ends with a bang. Amazing endless finish. What an energy. 100/100 *** Margaux: The greatest Margaux ever made. More than perfection. Full body, firm and ultra-silky tannins. Black currant, mineral and floral character. It starts slowly and seems almost endless on the palate. Seamless. I want to sing! This is the wine that Margaux never made in some of the classics vintages like 1961, 1959 and 1945. May be its the 1900 all over again? Breathtaking. 100/100 *** Mouton: Decadent and rich aromas of black cherries and plums with wet earth and sandalwood. Turns to dried mushrooms. Full-bodied, tight and closed with big, polished tannins, yet this is very closed and shy right now. Despite this, underneath it shows such depth and beauty. Tangy acidity. This is a combination of 2005 and 2009. Try it in 2024. 99/100 *** La Mission Haut Brion: The purity in this wine is really mindblowing. So perfect. Licorice. Stone. Blackberry, blueberry. Full body. The power is amazing. But then it finishes etheral and so agile and beautiful. I am lost for words. This will rank with the best ever from here including 1975 and 1929. 58% merlot, 35% cabernet sauvignon, and cabernet franc. 100/100 *** Yquem: This is an incredible young Yquem that is so vinous like a great vintage of Montrachet but then on the palate it turns to Yquem with spice, dried fruit and mushroom as well as sweet fruit. Last for minutes. Acidity is all there giving it a dynamic vibrance that jolts your senses. Special wine. It has a little more than than 140 grams of residual sugar, less than the legendary of 2001. But is very close in greatness. Let’s wait and see. 99-100/100 *** Cheval Blanc: Phenomenal aromas of cherries, flowers, blackberries and sandalwood. Pure fruit. Full-bodied, dense and polished with incredible tannin quality like the finest, densest silk ball. In perfect proportions. Compact. Seamless and endless. Gorgeous to taste now but give it six or seven years to understand it better. 99/100
Duclot
Crème de la crème fra hver årgang med 9 samtidshistoriske vine til evig tid - udødeligt gode og udødeligt sjældne.