Duclot: Sammlerbox Duclot Bordeaux-Kollektion 2010

Duclot Sammlerbox Duclot Bordeaux-Kollektion 2010

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Til vinbonden

100
100
2
Forskellige
5
, tør
Modnet
14,5% Vol.
Modenhed til at drikke: 2025–2055
Pakket ind i: 1 OHK
3
Lobenberg: 100/100
Parker: 100/100
Suckling: 100/100
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Frankrig, Bordeaux, Bordeaux-kollektionen
7
Allergener: Sulfitter
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Sammlerbox Duclot Bordeaux-Kollektion 2010

100
/100

Petrus: 100% Merlot, 14,5% alkohol. Som altid sort med en let violet kant. Meget intens næse af sorte kirsebær, brombær, fine røde frugter, røde kirsebær. Meget hurtig, meget intens. Meget spændende næse. Ekstremt hurtig i munden. Fantastisk syre. Sorte kirsebær igen. Nu kommer tjære, garrigue, masser af krydderier, cubansk tobak, røde kirsebær, cassis, gul frugt, mango, med blommehud nedenunder. Enorm længde. Bliver hængende i lang tid. Fantastisk, frisk Pomerol fuld af finesse. Helt sikkert en vin, der kun skal konkurrere med L'Evangile, Le Pin, Trotanoy og L'Eglise Clinet om topkvaliteten i appellationen. 100/100 *** Lafite: 87,2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12,8% Merlot. Sort med en rødviolet kant, skinnende. Meget kraftig Cabernet-næse med cassis, ribs og kirsebær, men også med sort frugt. Et strejf af paprika, brombær, igen masser af cassis, ribs, pomerans, mørk chokolade, cedertræ, cubansk tobak. Et lille strejf af brombær, et strejf af gul frugt, mango. Meget velduftende, meget aromatisk. Ren Cabernet, der viser en enorm race. Uventet fin i munden. Masser af race også her, sort og rød frugt. Vinen stråler, har længde og er en fornøjelse at drikke. Langt fra de to foregående årgange, især 2009. I 2010 er det løb og finesse, der dominerer. Glycerin og alkohol dominerer ikke, selv om der er rigeligt af dem. Alkoholindholdet er ret moderat med 13,5 %. Vinen starter som en sublim stor vin i munden og bliver finere og finere og slutter med stor længde og finesse. Modsat forventningerne til årgangen, meget finere, meget rigere på finesse end 2009, et stort fint år for Lafite, en Lafite i perfektion. 100/100 *** Latour: 90,5 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 8,5 % Merlot, 0,5 % Cabernet Franc og Petit Verdot. 14,5 % alkohol, 36 % af den samlede produktion gik til den store vin. Ekstremt aromatisk næse. Fyldige sorte kirsebær med cassis og brombær. Mørk chokolade, duftende, hurtig, voluminøs. Meget fin sødme. Masser af charme i munden, så kommer der fart på, igen masser af solbær sammen med sorte kirsebær. Syngende syre, polerede tanninmasser, tanninniveauet er nok højere end nogensinde før og alligevel smørblød og raffineret. Med så meget indre styrke og spænding fortjener den en plads i forreste række. Alkoholen er ikke mærkbar, er helt afbalanceret, men giver det rigtige fedt til at skabe en stor harmoni. Mindre af en blockbuster end i nogle år, mere af en fin Latour. En fornøjelse at drikke. 100/100 *** Margaux: Kun 38% af den samlede mængde går til den første vin. Det, der ikke går til første- eller andenvinen, sælges som en Margaux uden navn. Denne forbedring blev indført for første gang i 2009. Høstudbyttet var ekstremt lavt dette år. 90 % af Chateau Margaux er Cabernet Sauvignon, 7 % Merlot og 1,5 % hver af Petit Verdot og Cabernet Franc. Den første tilgang til vinen, til næsen, er en association til Californien. En påmindelse om Moueix' Dominus med et strejf af Harlan. En næsten ren Cabernet Sauvignon, men med en Merlot-lignende næse. Sort frugt kommer først, så rød frugt, ribs efterfulgt af brombær, sorte kirsebær, blåbær. Så kommer der vilde hindbær, hurtig syre, enorm fylde uden nogensinde at være fed, altid charmerende. Igen en klar association til Dominus eller andre rene Cabernets af den intense type fra Californien. Under den sorte frugt er der lidt gul frugt, som langsomt dukker op, og også lidt blommeskal. Det, der adskiller Margaux fra Californien i munden, er dens utrolige friskhed. En sådan syngende rød frugt under den voluminøse sorte frugt er meget sjælden. Dette er ren finesse, virkelig fantastisk! Lidt lys jord, lidt granit, selv om den vokser på kalksten, som blander sig med gruslinsen. Munden er enorm i sin finesse og samtidig i sin kraft. Mindet om 2005 kommer straks. 2005 var måske endnu slankere og mere elegant. 2010 har langt mere frugtkød med samme eller endnu højere syreindhold og endnu mere tannin. Modne vilde hindbær med modne sorte kirsebær, røde kirsebær, brombær, cassis. Altid fin, men alligevel meget voluminøs. Fin sødme, løbet kommer altid tilbage. Fantastisk Chateau Margaux. Helt sikkert, sammen med 2005, den bedste jeg har drukket indtil nu. En ægte sensation. 100/100 *** Mouton Rothschild: Sort rubinrød farve. Meget aromatisk næse, ristede smagsnuancer, lidt vanilje, sorte kirsebær, solbær. Meget hurtig. Syngende, anspændt, dramatisk, ekstremt smuk næse. Lignende harmoni og race i smagen. Sorte kirsebær, meget fine, men massive, kraftige tanniner. Enormt dyb, rund på samme tid. Meget mineralsk, måske endda lidt frisk mynte, hvid peber. Stor, fin, lang, frisk, meget hurtig Mouton. En stor succes. 100/100 *** Haut Brion: 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc. Uigennemsigtig sort farve. Der var en markant lavere andel af Merlot til fordel for den tredje vin, for ikke at presse alkoholen yderligere op. Udbyttet er mellem 35 og 40 hl/ha. Enorm sort frugt, næsten ren brombær, med rige blåbærundertoner. Grillet kød, ikke helt så meget i retning af race med solbær som La Mission. Mere fyldig her, minder stærkt om Allary Haut Brion, naboen, som var en del af Haut Brion indtil 2008. Meget sød, men aldrig klæbrig eller syltetøjsagtig. Vidunderlig vanilje fra træet trænger igennem. Derefter frisk blomme, mørk chokolade, et strejf af jordbærmarmelade, men stadig frisk. Lignende sort frugt i munden, sorte kirsebær, brombær, skarp syre, kraftfuld og raffineret på samme tid. Ikke helt så kompleks som den skøre La Mission, men meget imponerende. Og stor! Fantastisk sjov. 100/100 *** La Mission Haut Brion: Sort med en violet kant. Enormt kraftfuld. Vanvittig frugt! Ren cassis, lidt brombær, sorte kirsebær. Ekstrem høj intensitet, samtidig uendeligt løb. Brændt træ, grillet kød, krydret jord, krydderurter fra Provence, et strejf af appelsinskal, maracuya, ekstrem intensitet. Utrolig eksplosiv mund, ren race. Solbær med enorm syre. Masser af kraft, masser af sorte kirsebær og brombær. Aldrig for sød, altid fuld af race og finesse. Vinen danser, berører alle sanser. Den bliver hængende i mere end to minutter. Jeg har sjældent smagt en vin med en sådan intensitet. Dette bliver en kæmpe....Nej! Dette er en gigant. 100/100 *** Cheval Blanc: 35 ha vinmark. 56% Cabernet Franc, 44% Merlot. 14,5 % alkohol. Meget hurtig, kraftig næse af sorte kirsebær og cassis. Brombær, rød frugt nedenunder, rosenblade. Duftende aromatisk, meget tæt. Intens, meget sublim. God syre i munden, men alkohol og glycerin er også tydeligt mærkbare. Ekstremt polerede tanniner, men alligevel fyldige, runde og varme. Mineralsk, salt, krydret jord, mørk chokolade, sorte kirsebær, brombær og cassis. Fyldig og alligevel fin på samme tid. Meget flot vin, uden tvivl en rigtig stor Cheval. 100/100

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Parker om: Sammlerbox Duclot Bordeaux-Kollektion

Petrus: Deep garnet colored, the 2010 Petrus opens a little broody, with gentle crushed rocks, cast iron pan and fragrant earth notions giving way to a core plum preserves, baked blueberries, licorice and Black Forest cake plus wafts of pencil shavings, garrigue and violets. Full-bodied, the palate is beautifully poised with a firm line of exquisitely ripe, fine-grained tannins and fantastic freshness bolstering the generous fruit, finishing very long and very, very classy. Collectors fortunate enough to have a few bottles of this vintage are advised to be patient and allow it a further 7-10 years to loosen-up and emerge gloriously from this rock-solid structure. 100/100 *** Lafite: Deep garnet in color, the 2010 Lafite Rothschild is a little mute on the nose at this stage, opening to reveal warm blackcurrants, baked plums and boysenberry scents with hints of chocolate mint, violets, cedar chest and pencil lead. Full-bodied, rich and densely packed with perfumed black fruit layers, it has a rock-solid backbone of fantastically ripe, grainy tannins and beautiful freshness, finishing very long and minerally. Still very youthful! 100/100 *** Latour: One of the perfect wines of the vintage, Frederic Engerer challenged me when I tasted the 2010 Latour at the estate, asking, “If you rate the 2009 one hundred, then how can this not be higher?” Well, the scoring system stops at 100, (and has for 34 years,) and will continue for as long as I continue to write about wine. Nevertheless, this blend of 90.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.5% Merlot, and .5% Petit Verdot hit 14.4% natural alcohol and represents a tiny 36% of their entire production. The pH is about 3.6, which is normal compared to the 3.8 pH of the 2009, that wine being slightly lower in alcohol, hence the combination that makes it more flamboyant and accessible. The 2010 is a liquid skyscraper in the mouth, building layers upon layers of extravagant, if not over-the-top richness with its hints of subtle charcoal, truffle, blackberry, cassis, espresso and notes of toast and graphite. Full-bodied, with wonderfully sweet tannin, it is a mind-boggling, prodigious achievement that should hit its prime in about 15 years, and last for 50 to 100. 100/100 *** Margaux: The 2010 is a brilliant Chateau Margaux, as one might expect in this vintage. The percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the final blend hit 90%, the balance Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and only 38% of the crop made it into the Chateau Margaux. Paul Pontallier, the administrator, told me that this wine has even higher levels of tannin than some other extraordinary vintages such as 2005, 2000, 1996, etc. Deep purple, pure and intense, with floral notes, tremendous opulence and palate presence, this is a wine of considerable nobility. With loads of blueberry, black currant and violet-infused fruit and a heady alcohol level above 13.5% (although that looks modest compared to several other first growths, particularly Chateau Latour and Chateau Haut-Brion), its beautifully sweet texture, ripe tannin, abundant depth and profound finish all make for another near-perfect wine that should age effortlessly for 30-40 years. 99/100 *** Mouton Rothschild: Tasted at the Mouton-Rothschild vertical in London, the 2010 Mouton-Rothschild is a modern-day benchmark for the First Growth and here, side-by-side with the 2009, it certainly has its nose in front. It is in possession of quite breathtaking delineation and precision, a crystalline bouquet with black fruit laced with minerals, potent pencil shaving notes, a touch of cold slate. It is totally entrancing. The palate has beguiling symmetry, but for me what really distinguishes this Mouton is its effortlessness. Like watching Usain Bolt in his prime sprinting to another world record, this wine is almost self-effacing in terms of its brilliance. Will Philippe Dhalluin ever better this Mouton-Rothschild? Keep it in the cellar for 15 years, if you know what's good for you. Tasted May 2016. 99/100 *** Haut Brion: As for the 2010 Haut-Brion, it does not have the power of Latour’s 2010 or the intense lead pencil shavings and chocolaty component of Lafite-Rothschild, but it is extraordinary, perfect wine. It has a slightly lower pH than the 2009 (3.7 versus the 2009's 3.8), and even higher alcohol than the 2009 (14.6%). The wine is ethereal. From its dense purple color to its incredibly subtle but striking aromatics that build incrementally, offering up a spectacular smorgasbord of aromas ranging from charcoal and camphor to black currant and blueberry liqueur and spring flowers, this wine’s finesse, elegant yet noble power and authority come through in a compelling fashion. It is full-bodied, but that’s only apparent in the aftertaste, as the wine seems to float across the palate with remarkable sweetness, harmony, and the integration of all its component parts – alcohol, tannin, acidity, wood, etc. This prodigious Haut-Brion is hard to compare to another vintage, at least right now, but it should have 50 to 75 years of aging potential. Anticipated maturity: 2022-2065+. 100/100 *** La Mission Haut Brion: One of the most powerful La Missions ever produced, the 2010, a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc, achieved 15% natural alcohol (even higher than the 2009's 14.7%). Nevertheless, the pH is normal which gives the wine an extraordinary precision, freshness and vibrancy despite its massive size. A blue/purple color is followed by a classic nose of blueberry liqueur, creme de cassis, spring flowers and crushed rocks. This monumental, full-bodied, incredibly rich La Mission-Haut-Brion will need a decade of cellaring and should last for 40-50 years. It is slightly fatter and creamier than its sibling rival, the 2010 Chateau Haut-Brion. 98-100/100 *** Cheval Blanc: Deep garnet in color and made of 54% Cabernet Franc and 46% Merlot, the nose of the 2010 Cheval Blanc is a bit subdued to begin, measuredly opening out to reveal achingly provocative notions of molten chocolate, preserved Morello cherries, baked blackberries, boysenberries and blueberry compote with wafts of underbrush, cigar box, cumin seed and sandalwood. Full-bodied, the palate is a full-on atomic bomb waiting to go off, with very tightly coiled, slowly maturing black fruits eking out glimpses of a vast array of nuances. Still very youthful, it finishes with an incredibly persistent, jaw-dropping display of earth and mineral fireworks. I’d leave this one for another 5 years and drink it over the next 50. 100/100

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Suckling om: Sammlerbox Duclot Bordeaux-Kollektion

Petrus: This a Petrus with extraordinary balance and depth. It shows such elegance in the nose with complexity of black olives, dark fruits, and flowers. The palate is full and ultra-velvety yet there is a cashmere quality to the texture. It takes your breath away. There's almost a Burgundian quality in the mouthfeel meaning it takes you deep into the soil and captivates your attention. Greatest modern vintage of Petrus ever? Try after 2018. 100/100 *** Lafite: Believe the hype. Lafite is perfect in 2010. The nose is amazing with sweet tobacco, dark chocolate and currants. It is amazing. It’s like gazing into the blue sky in wonder after tasting this young wine. Full and powerful with amazing minerals, currants and bitter chocolate. It starts off slowly and then finishes with a bang. This is really layered and wonderful. It goes on and on. Stunning. 100/100 *** Latour: The aromas of flowers such as roses, violets and lilacs jump from the glass then turn to dark berries such as blueberries and blackberries. It's full-bodied, with velvety tannins and dense and intense with a chocolate, berry and currant character. This is juicy and rich with wood still showing a bit, but it's all coming together wonderfully. Muscular yet toned. Another perfect wine like the 2010. Try in 2022. 100/100 *** Margaux: A phenomenal nose of roses, violets, and other flowers. Subtle yet rich raspberries and currants. It is 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. The is a curious wine, almost ethereal. It is all in the front of the palate with ultra-fine tannins. It is full and very, very rich but it is forever balanced and in harmony What a wine. It is a pinpointed wine. So cerebral. It sends shivers down my spine. Incredible. 100/100 *** Mouton Rothschild: This is pure Cabernet Sauvignon magic with incredible aromas of currants, blackberries and light spices. Tiny hints of hazelnut. Wet earth. Full body, with super velvety tannins. The purity of fruit is breathtaking. It goes on for minutes. This is 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot. Try after 2020. 100/100 *** Haut Brion: Licorice and sweet tobacco with beautiful fruit and a blackberry and blue berry undertone. Complex and breathtaking. Amazing depth and intensity yet fine. This is the biggest proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon ever. Full and velvety. Intense finish. Super and muscular. Yet polished. Better than ever. 99-100/100 *** La Mission Haut Brion: This is crazy. The nose is so unique with the iodine, stones and currant aromas with wet earth and mushroom. Aromas like this don't usually come out until 10 years or so in the bottle. Classic nose for this estate. Full-bodied, with an amazing palate of firm yet polished tannins and a solid palate. So dense and gorgeous. It is really stunning. Try in 2020. 100/100 *** Cheval Blanc: The aromas here are crazy with flowers, mushroom, forest floor, and fruit. It seems like I am walking through a row of the vines in Cheval Blanc when I have my nose in the glass. It's full-bodied, with fabulous layers of ultra-fine tannins and milk chocolate, raspberries, and a phenomenal finish. Truly one of the greatest Chevals ever. Better than 2009. Try in 2020. 100/100

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