Domaine des Lambrays: Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2023

Domaine des Lambrays: Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2023

ØKOLOGISK

Begrænset

Trækasse

97–100
100
2
Pinot Noir 100%
5
rød, tør
14,0% Vol.
Modenhed til at drikke: 2030–2053
Pakket ind i: 6 OHK
9
struktureret
silkeblød og aromatisk
frisk syrlighed
3
Lobenberg: 97–100/100
Revue du Vin de France: 100/100
Decanter: 98/20
Tim Atkin: 98/100
The World of Fine Wine: 97–98/100
Galloni: 96–98/100
6
Frankrig, Bourgogne, Cote de Nuits
7
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2023

97–100
/100

Der er kun én vin fra alle fade og alle parceller, der er ingen graduering. Det skal handle om hele vinmarkens udtryk. I 2023 blev omkring 80 procent af druerne gæret som hele klaser i cylindriske træcuveer, der var specielt fremstillet til Lambrays. Det var det samme i 2022, fordi begge årgange var varme, mere middelhavsagtige årgange. Men 2022 var noget tørrere, og 2023 var først rigtig varm hen på efteråret. Pointen med de cylindriske cuvéer er, at der kan lægges et aluminiumslåg på toppen, så gæringen kan begynde under fuldstændig udelukkelse af ilt på trods af, at træcuvéerne faktisk er åbne. Normalt ønsker man, at gæringen skal starte hurtigt i åbne trækuber, så gæringsgasserne beskytter låget mod oxidering. Men med lambraer vil man gerne have en vis liggetid med en langsom start på gæringen, plus at låget beskytter mod ilt. Låget passer dog ikke på de koniske træcuveer, som er almindelige i Bourgogne, og derfor er det ekstremt omkostningskrævende at lave en specialproduktion. Men til disse flaskepriser er investeringen i den bedste teknologi det hele værd. Clos des Lambrays er altid den mest finesserige af Grands Crus i Morey, hvilket har været indtrykket hos alle smagere i århundreder og selv hos munkene, hvis man skal tro deres optegnelser. Hele vinmarkens mangfoldighed og kompleksitet med dens syv forskellige parceller afspejles i vinen. Som sagt er intet gradueret. Vi har den søde, tætte frugt, især hindbær- og jordbærmasse, som udstråler en meget raffineret delikatesse. Og et helt bed af forårsblomster, fra roser til tulipaner og violer. Det er simpelthen dejligt. Selv om der er masser af frugt, spiller den ikke nogen hovedrolle her. Vi er mere i den blomsteragtige og delikat krydrede retning. Uanset hvad er dette en fantastisk kompleks vin, som bliver hængende på tungen i flere minutter. Jacques Desvauges formår virkelig at få den sidste finesse ud af denne vinmark - og det er sådan et udfordrende år. Tanninerne kærtegner ganen, de er så fine, at man næsten ikke lægger mærke til dem, selv om de er der i overflod. Der er ingen tvivl om, at vinen kan forsvinde ned i en kælder i 20 år eller mere og stadig skinne. Men hvem har hjerte til at holde fingrene væk fra denne delikatesse og gourmandise i så lang tid? Sikkert ikke mig. Dette er smukke sager fra en af de bedste vinmarker i Bourgogne. Lambrays har nok aldrig været smukkere. Clos des Lambrays er køligere og mere elegant end sin noget rigere, mere kraftfulde nabo Clos de Tart, selv om de i de senere år er kommet tættere på hinanden med hensyn til elegance takket være den meget perfektionistiske vinfremstilling.

Smagsnotat
100
/100

Revue du Vin de France om: Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

Chiseled, ripe and harmonious, fleshy and energetic, perfectly proportioned. Everything is intense, integrated and penetrating in this dynamic, slender Pinot, with wonderfully silky tannins.

98
/20

Decanter om: Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

The superb Clos des Lambrays is among the greatest wines from this commune in 2023. lt has aromas of pomegranate and ripe currants with notes of allspice and clove, and a distinctive note of peony and rose petals. The texture balances density of extract and grip with crisp acidity and an effortless energy. Jacques Devauges worked tirelessly in the vineyard to li mit yields in 2023 and ended up with a wine of concentration and depth. 80% of the grapes were fermented as whole clusters. Ecocert organic certification was achieved with the 2022 vintage.

98
/100

Tim Atkin om: Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

There are 11 cuvées, all "reunited", as Jacques Devauges insists versus "blended", in the final wine. A remarkable 75% of the vines were planted in 1935 and 1898—the latter being the first post-phylloxera generation of vines. Another 22% were planted in 1980 and the rest planted in 2000. The 2023 is fabulously expressive. It has brawn, energy and patina—all the elements of a truly world-class wine. The architecture is imposing yet gracefully balanced. For every lick of tannic tug or spark of acidity, there is a countering pulse of pristinely ripe black fruits. It's not just a drink; it's an experience. Give this at least ten to 15 years, preferably far longer. This is one of my wines of the vintage.

Smagsnotat
97–98
/100

The World of Fine Wine om: Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

Jacques divides this into 11 different parcels, which are vinified and aged separately. This will be assembled in the spring, but it’s not a blend as such, since the wine is a proper representation of all parcels: Jacques does not select. We tasted three samples—a diagonal, from the bottom, MSD side, to the top on the south side. “There is a level of diversity in this grand cru that has existed since 1365. We have to make all the parcels separately to understand the diversity of this climat,” remarks Jacques. Plante Bas: 43-year-old vines at the bottom of the vineyard on the MSD side. All the fruit from here is destemmed and vinified with no SO2. Black-cherry, expressive fruit, but also quite an earthy aroma. A deep, earthy, and savory-sooty palate. Lots of tannins. Chewy. Not very long. 80 Ouvrées Milieu: This is in the center of the vineyard. All the fruit from these old vines, planted in 1934, is vinified as whole bunches. This is more restrained on the aroma but also the most concentrated. A satin texture on the attack, super-fresh, slightly stalky and vivacious. Snappy and much longer on the finish. Really persistent. Very good indeed. 50 Ouvrées Haut. The vines here are also old, planted in 1938, and all the fruit is also vinified as whole bunches. A perfumed, somewhat “high-toned” aroma, quite exotic and warm. Leaner on the palate, keen, spiky, and tart, with a slightly bitter finish. “Compact limestone and very austere,” says Jacques. I find this too dry. But both samples I tried came from barrels that had not been racked, while the sample of the 80 Ouvrées came from a barrel that had been. And finally, the assemblage of all 11 parcels that represents the wine for 2023. “Amazing terroir. It is an orchestra, with all these different parcels,” observes Jacques. Here there is the richness of mulberry fruit and spice on the aroma. But the palate is more refined than the nose suggested. So very aromatic. A perfumed, lightly purple palate, which carries to a lingering, floral, and slightly exotic finish. It is intense, very finely textured and delicate, yet the palate is expansive. Wafts on a long—so very long—and aromatic finish. As Jacques remarks, “Something happens when you put the wine together.” He is making a very different Clos des Lambrays from that of his immediate predecessors. Now Clos des Lambrays is intense yet delicate, precise and finely textured. A wine with great aromatic persistence.

96–98
/100

Galloni om: Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

Eleven different cuvées combine to form the 2023 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, with every square meter contributing to the blend, to quote Jacques Devauges verbatim (as an aside, this is the same philosophy at Cheval Blanc, which is also on LVMH's mantelpiece). This vintage includes 80% whole bunch and was raised in 60% new oak. The bouquet is very expressive with ebullient red berry fruit, tobacco, forest floor and subtle aromas of ceps. The palate is medium-bodied with fine yet firm tannins that lend backbone and gentle grip. This fans out with style on the sapid finish with a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. The 2023 ranks alongside the 2022 and may even surpass it. Prices have skyrocketed in recent years and priced out many Lambrays-lovers, but one cannot deny the quality.

Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2023