Domäne Serrig – Markus Molitor: Riesling Vogelsang Kabinett 2020

Domäne Serrig – Markus Molitor: Riesling Vogelsang Kabinett 2020

2
Riesling 100%
5
hvid, sød
10,5% Vol.
Modenhed til at drikke: 2025–2055
Pakket ind i: 3s
9
frisk syrlighed
frugt-orienteret
mineral
3
Lobenberg: 97+/100
Parker: 97/100
Jane Anson: 96/100
Galloni: 95/100
Suckling: 95/100
6
Tyskland, Mosel Saar Ruwer
7
Allergener: Sulfitter,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg om:
Riesling Vogelsang Kabinett 2020

97+
/100

Overvejende blå og grå skifer, en spektakulær skråning, meget stejl, ekstremt ufrugtbar nogle steder, også noget dybere ved foden af skråningen. Omkring 25 hektar i ét stykke, ren monopollage. 100 procent Riesling, og der er kun to vine: Vogelsang Kabinett og Vogelsang Große Lage trocken. Omkring 5 hektar er gamle vinstokke fra 1993, de resterende 20 hektar er plantet af Markus selv. Topgenetik fra Selection Massale fra gamle, upodede vinstokke plantet af Markus selv og en eller to kolleger, som er venner. Meget puristisk næse, vi er helt inde i det stenede, i jordbundsudtrykket, derudover en meget fin reduktion, men slet ikke højlydt som en Kai Schätzel eller JJ Prüm nogle gange, men ultrafin, svævende, minder mere om Zilliken, men sparsommere, et strejf af Egon er her allerede, men det er helt anderledes, fordi terroiret er helt anderledes. Det er varmere og mere eksponeret, men alligevel viser vinen intet frodigt eller varmt, selv ikke fra det varme år 2020. Helt kølig, fin, delikat og svævende. Et strejf af hvid fersken, citrongræs og citronskal. Markus og hans team har allerede overgået sig selv i den første udgivelse. Det faktum, at Kabinett er på niveau med Scharzhofberger, viser kvaliteten af denne store vinmark. Jeg er selv overrasket over, hvor ekstremt gode de første vine fra Molitors Domäne Serrig er. Dette er berusende godt. 97+/100

97
/100

Parker om: Riesling Vogelsang Kabinett

Basket pressed and vinified in traditional oak and stainless steel, the 2020 Vogelsang Kabinett is pure, bright and fresh on the highly delicate and flinty nose that shows precise and elegant fruit intertwined with the serious, flinty minerality of the gray and red slate soils of the domaine plus coolish vegetal nuances of nettles and mint. Round and intense yet light and filigreed on the palate, this is a pure, lush and round yet also very mineral, beautifully playful and palate-tickling Kabinett with less reduction than Molitor's Kabinetts usually show at this early stage. The sweetness is discreet and counterpointed by the immense mineral and saline drive. The finish is spectacularly long and tensioned, extremely complex and stimulating even at this age. This classic Kabinett reminds me of finest Scharzhofberger Kabinetts from Egon Müller. It is straight, sustainably saline, aromatic and charming. 10.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in September 2023. 97/100

96
/100

Jane Anson om: Riesling Vogelsang Kabinett

Muscular and graceful, on the nose this starts subtly then builds quickly towards intense and gripping flavours of crushed slate, white peach, lemongrass, quince, starfruit, lychee, green mango and oyster shell, by turns sharp and angular then opulent and fleshy with the barest hint of sweetness. Extremely elegant (the grapes for the kabinett are picked before the Grosse Lage to retain acidity, with the fermentation stopped to leave around 18g/l of residual sugar depending on vintage), with plenty of the textural precision that Molitor wines are known for. Structured but welcoming, this deserves to be taken notice of. Mainly stainless steel for ageing, with a touch of oak for 10 months. 96/100

95
/100

Galloni om: Riesling Vogelsang Kabinett

The 2020 Riesling Serriger Vogelsang Kabinett is subtle on the nose, opening with smokier hints of slate that still clouds lemon and riper, juicier notions. It is on the palate that the full playfulness of that fruit becomes apparent: this is a Kabinett in a classic sense, off-dry rather than outright sweet, with tender notions of sweetish Mirabelle, citrus blossom and mandarin juice, encompassed by a stony, citric verve. Such lightness, such elegance, such poise, such brightness. The finish flickers with an overtone of pineapple, as befits the sunny 2020 vintage, but retains tone, tension and, above all, flavor. (Off-dry) 95/100

95
/100

Suckling om: Riesling Vogelsang Kabinett

Very fresh and delicate nose of an entire garden of herbs, yellow grapefruit and pomelo. Juicier than the nose suggested with stacks of white tree fruits and citrus zest freshness on the medium-bodied palate, this is a youthful and very elegant riesling for the 2020 vintage. Emphatically dry and long for this theoretically off-dry category, but also finely etched. This has just reached its best youthful drinking form, but the party has only just begun! Drink or hold. 95/100

Min vinmager

Domäne Serrig – Markus Molitor

Domäne Serrig - arven fra en genoplivet legende. Kultdomænet blev bygget i 1904 af kejser Wilhelm II som det mest storslåede pragteksemplar i Saarvinenes gyldne æra og stråler nu i sin tidligere pragt i hænderne på universalgeniet Markus Molitor.