Quinta Nova de Nossa Senhora do Carmo: Aeternus Grande Reserva 2019

Parker om: Aeternus Grande Reserva

The 2019 Aeternus Grande Reserva is the latest iteration of a Grande Reserva. Relatively new, it's a tribute to Luisa Amorim's father. The name means "eternal." It is a field blend of over 60 grapes (Tinta Amarela, Touriga Nacional and others) from centenarian vines, aged in mostly used, 3,200-liter wood (the new wood was only 15%). It was aged for 12 months in new French oak and comes in at 14.3% alcohol. Big and burly in terms of structure, this has a somewhat darker flavor profile, but it still seems relatively fresh, not warm. So, that's more an expression of the grapes than something that might have an overripe component, I'd say. It's a little hard to read this backward wine just now, though, because it is so powerful. The tannins grab the palate and don't let go. The good news, though, is that they are ripe enough so as not to obliterate the fruit. Still, completely unevolved and disjointed, this is going to need a few years in the cellar. That will give us a better idea of whether it is very good or closer to stunning. 93+/100