Galloni über:
Riesling Deidesheimer Ortswein
-- Galloni: In keeping with VDP marketing demands, Von Winning will now offer Ortweine (village-level bottlings), and this one, sourced from multiple Deidesheim vineyards, is the first. Weighing in at only 11.5% alcohol, it delightfully captures a levity not found among this estate’s single-vineyard offerings. Smoky as well as cooling herbal notes suggestive of marjoram and basil mingle with intimations of chalk dust for a pungent aromatic impression that has its tactilely stimulating counterpart on a buoyant, silken palate. Alkaline notes on the seriously sustained finish pull things further in the direction of austerity, but an abundance of juicy fresh lime and apple counteracts that effect and offers consummate refreshment. Had I tasted this blend blind, I would almost certainly have assigned it to Forst rather than to neighboring Deidesheim. 91/100