Bodegas Luis Perez: Bina Vino de Pasto 2023

Bodegas Luis Perez: Bina Vino de Pasto 2023

Zum Winzer

97–98
100
2
Palomino Fino 100%
5
weiß, trocken
11,0% Vol.
Trinkreife: 2026–2044
Verpackt in: 6er
3
Lobenberg: 97–98/100
6
Spanien, Malaga und Jerez
7
Allergene: Sulfite,
lobenberg

Heiner Lobenberg über:
Bina Vino de Pasto 2023

97–98
/100

Lobenberg: Die Lage San Cayetano ist eine von Willi Perez besten Lagen, die sich über die Hochlagen und tiefern Lagen des besten Weinbergs in Jerez erstreck, dem Kalkstein-Kreide-Berg Macharnudo. Der Bina ist ein trockener Weißwein (Vino de Pasto), gleichwohl nicht frei von Florhefe und vor allem mit reichlich Power. Bina ist eine sehr kühle (was man in Jerez so unter kühl versteht) und steile Nordlage. Wasserstress gibts hier immer, deshalb sehr konzentriert. Im August frühg gelesen und sofort abgepresst, spontanb vergoren und dann unter Flor in alten Holzfässen ausgebaut. Trocken, nussig, eine deutliche Schärfe im frischen Mund und ziemlich konzentriert. Grandioser Stoff.

Jahrgangsbericht

2023 war sehr warm, aber er ist deutlich kühler und balancierter als der noch heißere und trockenere 2022. Nicht so aufregend und extrem wie 2021, eher eine reife und harmonische Version von 2020. Und so ist 2023 durchaus eine Fortsetzung der so großen Jahrgänge seit 2019. Luis Gutierez, Parkers Mann für Spanien, fasst den Jahrgang 2023 anhand von Alvaro Palacios Weingütern ganz im Westen und ganz im Osten, somit Landesübergreifend so zusammen: 2023 was an even more generous crop than 2022 … the wines have better balance, and it doesn't feel like a warm year at all. In fact, the wines feel more like they come from a cool year. It's a vintage that has a tendency toward reduction, not as much as 2020, but still reductive. But it's an elegant, stony reduction...The quality of the 2023s is stunning. There is a level of precision, cleanliness, symmetry and elegance that, if the end of the élevage and the bottling goes as expected, I must conclude that 2023 might be the finest vintage ... There might be other individual wines that reach higher peaks, but as an overall portfolio, the vintage 2023 represents the strongest collection ever produced.

Verkostungsnotiz

Weingut über: Bina Vino de Pasto

-- Weingut: San Cayetano extends over the border of Macharnudo Alto and Macharnudo Bajo, in a privileged environment that shares boundaries with leg- endary vineyards - Botaina (Viña AB), La Riva, Agustín Blázquez, Sabel, Viña 25 and El Castillo del Majuelo - responsible for some of the most celebrated wines of the Marco de Jerez over the last centuries. San Cayetano covers 12 hectares spread over 17 different plots. The southern slope has more sunshine and less organic matter. This sector gives rise to structured, deep wines, faithful to the classic Macharnudo style: direct amontillados, with marked intensity of flor and a powerful mouthfeel. The cooler northern slope offers wines of greater lightness and fluidity. Here we find the Bina plot (1.21 ha), characterized by a steep slope that increases water stress and, therefore, concentration. To preserve its vibrant and refreshing profile, we harvested Bina early, seeking a natural balance and moderate alcohol content. The vineyard is about 35 years old. The land reveals itself in different ways depending on how you question it. This is what happened when, at the end of the 19th century, the prestige moved from Macharnudo Alto to Macharnudo Bajo. The questions that Pedro Domecq whispered to the northern slope of the hill were not the same ones that, a century later, the Marquis of Casa Domecq would ask: ethics mutated and, with it, so did aesthetics. From that intergenerational counterpoint was born the dialectic of Macharnudo: the consolidated golds versus the pale ones that burst in as prologue and epilogue of the same limestone narration. Bina, one of the parcels that falls to the north of San Cayetano, is inspired by this tension, seeking an embryonic phase of the same terroir. A cool plot but with a steep slope, cold but concentrated due to water stress. That is why we harvested it early: to fix an elegance that the slope, with full maturity, would transform into excessive power. This is how Bina was born, a counterpoint to the solar classicism of Macharnudo and an essential voice in the dialogue of the hill. The grapes are harvested by hand, in small boxes, at the end of August. This year, due to its warmth, we did not do any crushing. It was pressed in a small vertical press and fermented spontaneously in sherry casks over 60 years old. These butts were only filled to about half full and the flor colonized their surface for 18 months. This bloom has been particularly intense due to the stress caused by the concentration of the wine. The wine is bottled in its natural state, seeking to express its identity as frankly as possible.

Mein Winzer

Bodegas Luis Perez

In Jerez de la Frontera in Andalusien, quasi im Herzen des Sherry-Gebietes, erzeugt Willy Perez auf seiner Bodega Luis Perez neben sehr eigenständigen, schlanken und präzisen Weinen, auch komplexe Sherry im Stil der »alten Schule«.

Bina Vino de Pasto 2023