Nikolaihof: Riesling Baumpresse Im Weingebirge 2012

Galloni über: Riesling Baumpresse Im Weingebirge

-- Galloni: On the nose, this suggests mussels that gorged on algae and were subsequently simmered with fennel, marjoram and black pepper – an umami-rich impression such as causes one to wonder, “How can this come from grapes?” So it isn’t surprising that the silken-textured, buoyant palate delivers mouthwatering mineral and animal savor. But it also introduces welcome Riesling-typical lemon and white peach juiciness. The sense of mystery and of transparency to nuance conveyed on the finish is met by irresistible generosity of fruit. (For much more about this remarkable and unique Nikolaihof bottling – whose vineyard origin is now indicated on the label – consult my review of the corresponding 2011.) 94/100